Fabric science wool

The term wool alone says nothing about quality

According to textile labelling rules, wool refers to a fibre from the fleece of sheep or to blends with the hair of other animal species. However, the word alone says nothing about the quality of the wool.

The fibres can have different origins, different degrees of fineness and can be processed in different ways. Recycled old wool, often called recycled wool, can also appear under general wool terms.

If a fabric consists exclusively of wool from sheep, labels may use additions such as “100%”, “pure” or “all”, for example “pure wool”. For the actual suitability of a fabric, the weave, weight, feel, density and processing are always important as well.

Overview: wool, virgin wool and recycled wool

The following terms are often mixed up in everyday use. For choosing the right fabric, however, the distinction is important.

Lambswool, merino and more

Manufacturers often use combinations with the word wool in product descriptions to make origin, fineness or quality clearer. Lambswool, also known as first clip wool, refers to the first shearing of a young sheep.

Merino wool comes from merino sheep and is known for particularly fine fibres. Crossbred wool comes from sheep breeds with a medium fibre diameter. Cheviot wool or coarse wool comes from sheep with stronger fibres.

What does virgin wool mean?

The term virgin wool plays a special role. Virgin wool refers to newly processed wool obtained from a living sheep by shearing.

“Pure virgin wool” means that the fibre composition consists of 100% such virgin wool fibres. In textile blends, the term virgin wool may be used if the relevant labelling rules are met and the fibre ratio is stated.

This distinction is important for customers because general wool, virgin wool, recycled wool and blends do not mean the same thing. For high-quality wool fabrics, historical clothing, reenactment, LARP or uniform parts, it is therefore worth taking a close look at the material composition.

Which animals provide wool?

In addition to sheep, the hair of other animal species may also be referred to as wool or animal hair. These include alpaca, llama, camel, cashmere goat, angora goat for mohair, angora rabbit, vicuña, yak, guanaco, beaver and otter.

Used alone or blended with one another, these fibres often carry the name of the animal with or without the addition wool or animal hair, for example cashmere or cashmere wool. Hair from other animals may be marketed under the term animal hair, such as horsehair.

Where does sheep’s wool come from?

Many people value clothing made from sheep’s wool because of its special properties: wool can warm or cool, repel water and dirt to a certain extent and bind unpleasant odours.

Sheep’s wool can vary greatly depending on origin and sheep breed. The largest producers of sheep’s wool are traditionally countries with large sheep populations, such as Australia and New Zealand. After shearing, raw wool is cleaned and further processed.

With merino wool, animal welfare, keeping conditions and mulesing are also often discussed. If origin, animal welfare or exact processing are especially important for a project, you should ask specifically about the details of the respective fabric before purchasing.

Why are there different terms for wool from sheep?

Various terms are used for sheep’s wool. Especially important are virgin wool, pure virgin wool and recycled wool. Virgin wool comes from living sheep and is obtained by shearing. Recycled wool, on the other hand, is a recycling product made from reused textiles.

There are also other terms: wool from the skins of slaughtered sheep is called fellmongered wool, while wool from animals that died naturally is sometimes referred to as dead wool. These terms show that “wool” alone is not an exact indication of quality or origin.

Fine, medium and coarse wool

In addition to the way wool is obtained, the sheep breed and fibre fineness also play a major role. In general, wool can be divided into fine, medium and coarse wool.

Merino wool is considered a particularly fine wool. Medium-fine wools can come from different sheep breeds and, depending on processing, may be suitable for outerwear or home textiles. Coarse wool often comes from hardy sheep breeds and is usually less pleasant for direct skin contact.

For fabrics sold by the metre, the name of the wool is therefore not the only important factor. The actual feel, weight, weave and intended use are just as important.

Which wool suits which project?

The right wool quality always depends on the project. A coat or cloak usually requires a different quality than a dress, tunic, skirt, hood, uniform part or lighter garment.

Further reading and advice

If you are unsure which wool quality suits your project, the material composition, weight, feel, weave, desired drape and care instructions can help with the decision. For larger projects, historical garments, reenactment, LARP or uniform parts, it is worth asking a quick question before buying.