The late Middle Ages encompass the period between around 1300 and 1500, although some definitions do not place the beginning until after 1350. However, fashion developments can be observed from as early as 1300. While clothing in the High Middle Ages often consisted of simple rectangular cuts and body-hugging fashion was mainly emphasized by belts, this changed significantly in the Late Middle Ages. Men’s and women’s fashion increasingly diverged and new techniques made more sophisticated cuts possible.
Buttons, lacing and body-hugging clothing
One of the most significant innovations of this period was the (re)discovery of the button. Its use made it possible to wear garments closer to the body. Especially on the arms and upper body, buttons created a figure-hugging silhouette. Over time, this development was reinforced by lacing, hooks and eyelets, so that clothing was even tighter and emphasized the body shape even more.
While women’s fashion remained long but became increasingly form-fitting (sometimes with the beginnings of a neckline), men’s clothing became drastically shorter. During the late Middle Ages, the male cotte became so short that the bruche (underpants) worn underneath became visible. As a result, trousers, which originally consisted of two separate leggings, developed into one continuous garment – a forerunner of modern trousers.
Colors and materials – The new variety
In terms of color, the late Middle Ages hardly differed from the High Middle Ages, but with the rise of the cities and the growing prosperity of the middle classes, the demand for fine fabrics increased. Whereas previously it was mainly the nobility who had access to high-quality materials, wealthy citizens were now also able to wear colorful and more elaborately crafted fabrics.
Expensive dyes such as cochineal (intense red), saffron or bright yellow were particularly popular. But dyed fabrics were also common in simpler layers. Vegetable dyes such as madder root (reds), reseda (yellow) and woad (blue) made a variety of colors possible and contributed to the fact that the Middle Ages were a colorful era overall.
Fine fabrics for sophisticated demands
In addition to wool, the main material for clothing, linen also became increasingly important. Linen fabrics were particularly popular in summer as they were breathable and comfortable on the skin. For wealthy citizens and nobles, there were also luxurious materials such as silk and fine woolen fabrics. Silk was extremely expensive and usually came from the Orient. High-quality woolen fabrics were woven in fine weaves, which made them smoother and more comfortable to wear than the coarse fabrics of the early Middle Ages.
Conclusion – Fashion consciousness in the late Middle Ages
The late Middle Ages was by no means a monotonous era, but a time of fashion experiments and social change. Growing prosperity made new trends possible, which were further developed in the early modern period. Whether for re-enactment, theater or museum projects – with our authentic fabrics, you can bring this fascinating period back to life and create authentic garments based on historical models.
